February EBC 2012 trip
A fantastic team, each one of them dedicated and full of expectation. Throw in a heap of laughs from start to finish, some good weather, brilliant scenery and each one of the team successfully reaching their own pre-determined destination and altitude.
This 2012 trip was a great success.
Read about our endeavours and the comments from those who followed our progress below.
A fantastic team, each one of them dedicated and full of expectation. Throw in a heap of laughs from start to finish, some good weather, brilliant scenery and each one of the team successfully reaching their own pre-determined destination and altitude.
This 2012 trip was a great success.
Read about our endeavours and the comments from those who followed our progress below.
2012 Team
(NOTE....Refer below for 2012 trip Comments & Feedback).
Saturday 11th Feb. Midnight Bangkok.
So....After 7 months of planning, and 3 months of training, our trip begins.
On arrival at Melb airport, Thai Airways advise that they need to bump us onto a replacement older Boeing777 that has NO multimedia in the back of the seats....!! Makes the 9 hr trip to Bangkok feel a long long day.
We take off at 3.30pm, and the team nonetheless have a good flight and are already building their anticipation of arriving into Nepal tomorrow.
Overnight at one of the nearby airport hotels. A few beers on the rooftop at around 1.30am (body clock time). Very pleasant.
Bangkok warm but not as humid as previous visits.
Sunday 12th Feb. 5pm. Kathmandu.
After an early warm Bangkok awakening this morning, we continued our journey onto Nepal, arriving into Kathmandu at 12.40pm. Interesting that despite the 6 of us all having exactly the same purchased air tickets, 3 of us were asked to pay Thai departure tax, while the other 3 were not....!!. gggrrrrrr. Not happy. A letter going to Thai Airways on my return..!
My favourate driver from the Kathmandu Guest House "Laxman" was there to greet us at Kathmandu airport and drive us to the Guest House. You can do this trip half a dozen times, but it is still an experience you never forget, or prepare for. Wayne, John and I in one car. Robyn, Peter and Sue in another.
After checking in, we ventured out into the streets to explore the equipment hire shops to hire sleeping bags and down jackets for the trek. (Weather reports from Everest Base camp has the night times dropping to minus 25deg...!!).
Dinner tonight at a small but cosy restaurant just up the road. A lot of fun and laughs had by all. The team is getting along fantastic and never missing an opportunity to find excuses to rib each other. Some true stirrers amongst us.
Oh...todays plane also had no multimedia screens in the back of the seats...! The team is holding me fully responsible for this situation.
Ok, body clock is telling me it's 3.15am. This screen is starting to blur.
Monday 13th Feb. 8pm. Kathmandu.
Saturday 11th Feb. Midnight Bangkok.
So....After 7 months of planning, and 3 months of training, our trip begins.
On arrival at Melb airport, Thai Airways advise that they need to bump us onto a replacement older Boeing777 that has NO multimedia in the back of the seats....!! Makes the 9 hr trip to Bangkok feel a long long day.
We take off at 3.30pm, and the team nonetheless have a good flight and are already building their anticipation of arriving into Nepal tomorrow.
Overnight at one of the nearby airport hotels. A few beers on the rooftop at around 1.30am (body clock time). Very pleasant.
Bangkok warm but not as humid as previous visits.
Sunday 12th Feb. 5pm. Kathmandu.
After an early warm Bangkok awakening this morning, we continued our journey onto Nepal, arriving into Kathmandu at 12.40pm. Interesting that despite the 6 of us all having exactly the same purchased air tickets, 3 of us were asked to pay Thai departure tax, while the other 3 were not....!!. gggrrrrrr. Not happy. A letter going to Thai Airways on my return..!
My favourate driver from the Kathmandu Guest House "Laxman" was there to greet us at Kathmandu airport and drive us to the Guest House. You can do this trip half a dozen times, but it is still an experience you never forget, or prepare for. Wayne, John and I in one car. Robyn, Peter and Sue in another.
After checking in, we ventured out into the streets to explore the equipment hire shops to hire sleeping bags and down jackets for the trek. (Weather reports from Everest Base camp has the night times dropping to minus 25deg...!!).
Dinner tonight at a small but cosy restaurant just up the road. A lot of fun and laughs had by all. The team is getting along fantastic and never missing an opportunity to find excuses to rib each other. Some true stirrers amongst us.
Oh...todays plane also had no multimedia screens in the back of the seats...! The team is holding me fully responsible for this situation.
Ok, body clock is telling me it's 3.15am. This screen is starting to blur.
Monday 13th Feb. 8pm. Kathmandu.
John & Sue about to tackle the 300 steps to Monkey Temple
Firstly, thanks to all who have left terrific comments for us all on the response page. John, Sue and I in particular have had a good laugh reading them.
Today we played tourist. A visit to the Monkey Temple then to "Push, Push'' (because I can never remember how to say 'Pashputenath"), with a visit to the Trekking permit office thrown in. In fact we are all taxied out by early afternoon. Sitting in a taxi for most of the day driving around the streets of Kathmandu is like sitting on a roller coaster ride with warped tracks. Those of you who have visited here will know what I am talking about. There is simply NO rules on the roads, yet somehow it all seems to mesh together with seemingly very little accidents.
We climbed about 3000 steps today and saw 527 monkeys. Quote of the day from John - "Is that monkey doing what I think it's doing?". In fact John entered a "stare out" with one particular monkey. With neither giving in to each other, it got rather tense. I think a nil all draw in the end.
We have our Lukla tickets confirmed for Wednesday morning at .....yes.... 6.15am..!! This means being at the domestic airport at 5.15am, and awake at 4.30am..!! Some of the team are NOT early rises (no names....), so will be a challenge.
The team spent most of the late afternoon exploring the streets of Thamel and trekking shops for last equipment shopping and/or hiring. With the current weather reports coming in at minus 25deg at Everest Base Camp, the weather ratings on our required down jackets and sleeping bags has been increased. It rained in Kathmandu today, so one can only imagine what was happening at Lukla, or for that matter Loboche. Most of the team are now happy with the equipment they have, and are now keen to get into Lukla and make a start.
There is a wicked sense of humour amongst the team. Wayne and John are sharing a room at the Guest House, and this has been a source of crude ridicule from Sue. In fact, Sue may soon be required to face disciplinary action from the team.
Ok, time to sign off and try to make it back to the Guest House with out being harassed to buy Tiger Balm, Rickshaw, Change Money, Hash etc etc.
You gotta love Kathmandu.....
Tuesday 14th Feb. 9pm Kathmandu
Ok, hopefully my last post from Kathmandu, as we are due to fly into Lukla in the morning.
A great day today. Vigorous shopping from all this morning has us all now the proud owners of some very nice (but perhaps not quite authentic) trek gear...!
Then an enjoyable walk to Durbar Square where we agreed to one of those pesty touts offering a tour of the Square. It ended up money well spent. I've been to Durbar Square 3 times previously, but today I learnt more about it than I ever knew before.
Today presented us with magnificent weather with the clearest of days. We were thrilled to see snow capped peaks from central Kathmandu, which is a rare thing. Our fingers are crossed that the morning will present a day that will allow our flight into Lukla.
Everyone's health and fitness is ok, although Peter has picked a bad time to get some tenderness around his knee...!!! Popping pills at the moment in the hope of an overnight fix, and didn't have his customary beers through dinner. (Yes you heard me right...!!).
We have just returned from dinner at Rum Doodles. Good food, and as usual some good laughs. We are now the proud owners of our very own Rum Doodles foot print.
Wish us luck for tomorrow.
Today we played tourist. A visit to the Monkey Temple then to "Push, Push'' (because I can never remember how to say 'Pashputenath"), with a visit to the Trekking permit office thrown in. In fact we are all taxied out by early afternoon. Sitting in a taxi for most of the day driving around the streets of Kathmandu is like sitting on a roller coaster ride with warped tracks. Those of you who have visited here will know what I am talking about. There is simply NO rules on the roads, yet somehow it all seems to mesh together with seemingly very little accidents.
We climbed about 3000 steps today and saw 527 monkeys. Quote of the day from John - "Is that monkey doing what I think it's doing?". In fact John entered a "stare out" with one particular monkey. With neither giving in to each other, it got rather tense. I think a nil all draw in the end.
We have our Lukla tickets confirmed for Wednesday morning at .....yes.... 6.15am..!! This means being at the domestic airport at 5.15am, and awake at 4.30am..!! Some of the team are NOT early rises (no names....), so will be a challenge.
The team spent most of the late afternoon exploring the streets of Thamel and trekking shops for last equipment shopping and/or hiring. With the current weather reports coming in at minus 25deg at Everest Base Camp, the weather ratings on our required down jackets and sleeping bags has been increased. It rained in Kathmandu today, so one can only imagine what was happening at Lukla, or for that matter Loboche. Most of the team are now happy with the equipment they have, and are now keen to get into Lukla and make a start.
There is a wicked sense of humour amongst the team. Wayne and John are sharing a room at the Guest House, and this has been a source of crude ridicule from Sue. In fact, Sue may soon be required to face disciplinary action from the team.
Ok, time to sign off and try to make it back to the Guest House with out being harassed to buy Tiger Balm, Rickshaw, Change Money, Hash etc etc.
You gotta love Kathmandu.....
Tuesday 14th Feb. 9pm Kathmandu
Ok, hopefully my last post from Kathmandu, as we are due to fly into Lukla in the morning.
A great day today. Vigorous shopping from all this morning has us all now the proud owners of some very nice (but perhaps not quite authentic) trek gear...!
Then an enjoyable walk to Durbar Square where we agreed to one of those pesty touts offering a tour of the Square. It ended up money well spent. I've been to Durbar Square 3 times previously, but today I learnt more about it than I ever knew before.
Today presented us with magnificent weather with the clearest of days. We were thrilled to see snow capped peaks from central Kathmandu, which is a rare thing. Our fingers are crossed that the morning will present a day that will allow our flight into Lukla.
Everyone's health and fitness is ok, although Peter has picked a bad time to get some tenderness around his knee...!!! Popping pills at the moment in the hope of an overnight fix, and didn't have his customary beers through dinner. (Yes you heard me right...!!).
We have just returned from dinner at Rum Doodles. Good food, and as usual some good laughs. We are now the proud owners of our very own Rum Doodles foot print.
Wish us luck for tomorrow.
We now have our very own "footprint" at Rum Doodles.
Thursday 16th Feb. 3.30pm. Namche.
No update yesterday as no internet.
As you can read, we at at Namche, 3500mtrs amsl. After all the stress and anxiety about whether we would get into Lukla on time, we ended up getting in with an absolute minimum of fuss, landing at about 7.45am yesterday. A quick breakfast at Paradise Lodge and hire of 4 porters (one of which my son Jeff and I used in 2007) and we were on the track at 9.30am. Lunch at Ghat and our stop last night at TokTok (30min further on from Phakding).
John (being Scottish) is having a tough time pronouncing "Phakding" and this has the team in fits of laughter.
Peter did extremely well yesterday given his nasty and un-timely attack of gout. He soldiered on and has improved today. Robyn is going well although it wasn't until we got to the lodge last night that we discovered her day pack was weighing at at around 12kg...!! Don't ask....!!
There is seriously too much laughing going on on this trek. Sue and John are the main instigators, but Peter and Robyn have their own "special" way of getting some laughs out of the team.
Today we climbed to Namche. This has been our targeted first big day, particularly for Wayne, Peter and Robyn who will be heading back down after tomorrow. As usual, Sue and John were way out in front, I stayed back with Wayne, and as I write this Peter and Robyn have just made it in. GREAT EFFORT. All that pre departure hard work on the 1000 Steps has paid off.
It's snowing outside at the moment, but the weather thus far has been quite comfortable. People coming down from higher have however confirmed minus 25s....!!! Lovely..!!
Rest day tomorrow, then the team part company. 3 going higher, 3 going back down.
Again, thanks for your comments. They have been a good laugh for us.
Friday 17th Feb. 5pm. Namche.
No update yesterday as no internet.
As you can read, we at at Namche, 3500mtrs amsl. After all the stress and anxiety about whether we would get into Lukla on time, we ended up getting in with an absolute minimum of fuss, landing at about 7.45am yesterday. A quick breakfast at Paradise Lodge and hire of 4 porters (one of which my son Jeff and I used in 2007) and we were on the track at 9.30am. Lunch at Ghat and our stop last night at TokTok (30min further on from Phakding).
John (being Scottish) is having a tough time pronouncing "Phakding" and this has the team in fits of laughter.
Peter did extremely well yesterday given his nasty and un-timely attack of gout. He soldiered on and has improved today. Robyn is going well although it wasn't until we got to the lodge last night that we discovered her day pack was weighing at at around 12kg...!! Don't ask....!!
There is seriously too much laughing going on on this trek. Sue and John are the main instigators, but Peter and Robyn have their own "special" way of getting some laughs out of the team.
Today we climbed to Namche. This has been our targeted first big day, particularly for Wayne, Peter and Robyn who will be heading back down after tomorrow. As usual, Sue and John were way out in front, I stayed back with Wayne, and as I write this Peter and Robyn have just made it in. GREAT EFFORT. All that pre departure hard work on the 1000 Steps has paid off.
It's snowing outside at the moment, but the weather thus far has been quite comfortable. People coming down from higher have however confirmed minus 25s....!!! Lovely..!!
Rest day tomorrow, then the team part company. 3 going higher, 3 going back down.
Again, thanks for your comments. They have been a good laugh for us.
Friday 17th Feb. 5pm. Namche.
Everest a little "shy" today. Clouds....clouds....and more clouds..!
Rest and acclimatisation day today, although the usual tough slog to Everest View Hotel at 3900mtrs. Not much of a reward. Everest appeared through the cloud for approx 10 seconds every 5 minutes. There is a lot of cloud up here at the moment, and this threatens to wipe out our views of the mountain. I actually noted on the flight into Kathmandu last Sunday that there was an unusually high cloud cover over the Himalayas. Perhaps this was a sign of things to come....! Still quite a few other giants today to satisfy the altitude junkies amongst us.
A visit to the Edmund Hillary school on the way back capped of a good day.
The climb and descent may have however blown out Wayne's knee, which is a shame as he has been trekking exceptionally well to date. He is going to see how it goes throughout the night. Peter's knee has come good.
Back in Namche now and about to have first shower for trek, a bucket of warm water..!!
Tomorrow the team split up. John, Sue and I (with porters Mingma and Kurmu) head up to Everest Base Camp, while Wayne, Peter and Robyn (with Nima and Pemba) limp back to Lukla.
Word has it that there is very little WIFI further up, so unfortunately my updates may become a little few and far between over the next week and a bit.
I am aiming to print out all your comments and take them back to the lodge so the team can have a read.
John, Sue and I are trekking strongly at present, so the pre-departure training has been good to us thus far.
Quote of the day - Robyn looking at small baby in lodge "It looks very Nepalese".....!! Gotta luv her....
Saturday 18th Feb. Deboche 3,800mtrs
It's Brian@Weeroona here doing the update for David. I'm receiving the updates via mobile text as there is no Internet WiFi. How are they surviving?
From David,
A visit to the Edmund Hillary school on the way back capped of a good day.
The climb and descent may have however blown out Wayne's knee, which is a shame as he has been trekking exceptionally well to date. He is going to see how it goes throughout the night. Peter's knee has come good.
Back in Namche now and about to have first shower for trek, a bucket of warm water..!!
Tomorrow the team split up. John, Sue and I (with porters Mingma and Kurmu) head up to Everest Base Camp, while Wayne, Peter and Robyn (with Nima and Pemba) limp back to Lukla.
Word has it that there is very little WIFI further up, so unfortunately my updates may become a little few and far between over the next week and a bit.
I am aiming to print out all your comments and take them back to the lodge so the team can have a read.
John, Sue and I are trekking strongly at present, so the pre-departure training has been good to us thus far.
Quote of the day - Robyn looking at small baby in lodge "It looks very Nepalese".....!! Gotta luv her....
Saturday 18th Feb. Deboche 3,800mtrs
It's Brian@Weeroona here doing the update for David. I'm receiving the updates via mobile text as there is no Internet WiFi. How are they surviving?
From David,
The team prior to splitting up, just above Namche at 3600mtrs amsl.
Well, after a sad and emotional farewell at a lookout point above Namche Bazaar, the team split up today. Wayne, Peter and Robyn will commence their descent back to Lukla tomorrow, while John, Sue and I continue our climb towards Everest.
We climbed from 3,500mtrs to 3,900mtrs today and it was tough. Zero degrees outside at the moment and expect minus 10 tonight. Still no views of Everest due to cloud. Frustrating.
All well and healthy and (thus far) avoiding the cold.
Saturday 18th Feb. 6:15pm Deboche.
Brian@Weeroona.
Another update just through.
"John is battling a pesty head cold which is preventing him from getting a good sleep (and making him grumpy)".
I've just been clarifying their position, David says they are about 15 minutes walk past Thenboche. 2 hours to Pangboche tomorrow morning, then through to Dingboche for two night acclimatisation.
Note that there are sometimes spelling differences between the local spelling and the Google spelling of the village names.
If you have access to Google Earth, you can follow their progress. If you copy and paste the following coordinates into the search box in Google Earth, it should take you to what I think is their present location at this date.
86°46'22.27"E 27°50'33.16"N. Copying and pasting the coordinates into the search box in Google Maps will also take you there where you can switch to the Satellite view.
Their two nights acclimatisation will be at Dingboche at the coordinates,
86°49'42.65"E 27°53'28.09"NPS
David tells me that he is missing his cappuccino.
All together now....Awwww!
Sunday 19th Feb. 8:15pm Dingboche. -15C deg.
Brian @ Weeroona doing the update.
From David via text.
Great walk from Deboche today. We cut 1 day off our schedule by skipping a night at Pangboche. 3 of us walking well although the ups getting harder as we climb higher.
John has chosen to walk way out in front, which Sue and I appreciate. There's nothing worse than a grumpy Scot with a head cold. Barry, I reckon he's angry enough to squash 2 grapes at present..!!
The day was brilliant sunshine with Everest in full view. We got into Dingboche at around 1:15 and really felt the cold sitting around the lodge this afternoon. Dropped to below zero at around 1 pm. Right now wearing my minus 20 down jacket.
Quote of the day. John when told we were stopping for lunch at 10:50am. "We're *%$#~ doing what?"
Unable to read your comments at the moment due no WiFi but look forward to getting them when we return lower.
We climbed from 3,500mtrs to 3,900mtrs today and it was tough. Zero degrees outside at the moment and expect minus 10 tonight. Still no views of Everest due to cloud. Frustrating.
All well and healthy and (thus far) avoiding the cold.
Saturday 18th Feb. 6:15pm Deboche.
Brian@Weeroona.
Another update just through.
"John is battling a pesty head cold which is preventing him from getting a good sleep (and making him grumpy)".
I've just been clarifying their position, David says they are about 15 minutes walk past Thenboche. 2 hours to Pangboche tomorrow morning, then through to Dingboche for two night acclimatisation.
Note that there are sometimes spelling differences between the local spelling and the Google spelling of the village names.
If you have access to Google Earth, you can follow their progress. If you copy and paste the following coordinates into the search box in Google Earth, it should take you to what I think is their present location at this date.
86°46'22.27"E 27°50'33.16"N. Copying and pasting the coordinates into the search box in Google Maps will also take you there where you can switch to the Satellite view.
Their two nights acclimatisation will be at Dingboche at the coordinates,
86°49'42.65"E 27°53'28.09"NPS
David tells me that he is missing his cappuccino.
All together now....Awwww!
Sunday 19th Feb. 8:15pm Dingboche. -15C deg.
Brian @ Weeroona doing the update.
From David via text.
Great walk from Deboche today. We cut 1 day off our schedule by skipping a night at Pangboche. 3 of us walking well although the ups getting harder as we climb higher.
John has chosen to walk way out in front, which Sue and I appreciate. There's nothing worse than a grumpy Scot with a head cold. Barry, I reckon he's angry enough to squash 2 grapes at present..!!
The day was brilliant sunshine with Everest in full view. We got into Dingboche at around 1:15 and really felt the cold sitting around the lodge this afternoon. Dropped to below zero at around 1 pm. Right now wearing my minus 20 down jacket.
Quote of the day. John when told we were stopping for lunch at 10:50am. "We're *%$#~ doing what?"
Unable to read your comments at the moment due no WiFi but look forward to getting them when we return lower.
Escaping the cold in the Dingboche lodge. It's around 6pm, the heater is not yet alight, and it's already minus 5deg......inside...!
Monday 20th Feb. 1:25pm Acclimatisation Day Dingboche
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
From David via text.
450 mtrs altitude gain to Chukhung at 4800mtrs. Walk there and back tough. Slight headache.
John fast on the ups and Sue fast on the downs. Me just looking at the splendid scenery.
Big day tomorrow. Loboche at 4900mtrs.
No WiFi and only occasional mobile carrier. When I get a signal, texting updates to good mate Brian for him to update site.
Good weather today.
Hope Wayne, Peter and Robyn are going ok.
From Brian.
Another message from David has asked me to keep and eye on his email for messages from Wayne, Peter and Robyn on their progress to be added to this page.
Chukhung is up a valley away from the main track. Google Earth coordinates, cut and paste into the search box,
27°54'10.55"N 86°52'10.68"E
It's often suggested to take this walk to help in acclimatising for the higher altitudes, going up for the day and back down to a lower altitude "priming" the body for the altitude gains. Also stops them from lying around stuffing themselves with that Nepalese delicacy, Dhal Bhat, and getting fat and lazy, but we won't go there.
David mentions the splendid scenery on this stroll. As you can see on Google Earth, it truly is magnificent to see.
Tomorrow will see them walking through Dughla and just beyond, a hard and fairly steep climb up the glacier moraine. This is, from memory, a steep enough climb at sea level but at that altitude, it's a major struggle.
Tuesday 21st Feb. About 9:30am
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
From David.
On route to Laboche right now.
Cheers.
From Brian.Google Earth coordinates are,
Laboche 27°56'53.42"N 86°48'37.49"E
Gorak Shep 27°58'49.24"N 86°49'44.37"E
Kalla Pattar 27°59'35.22"N 86°49'39.21"E
Everest Base Camp 27°59'46.52"N 86°52'13.66"E
Tuesday 21st Feb. 7:48pm Melbourne time.
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
Just received a text from David, they are now in Laboche where there is WiFi available. Might be a dodgy signal but David is going to try to do an update.
Tuesday 21st Feb. 7.30 pm. Loboche (way up high in the Himalayas)
Hi all. We have come across our first WIFI in quite a few days. Special thanks to Brian in Melbourne for posting my updates from my text messages when I get occasional carrier service.
We have reached Loboche at 4900mtrs. All trekking reasonably strong. Some ever so slight headaches from altitude but appetites still fierce..! John is still fighting his head cold (more a runny nose) but is still walking strongly.
Sleeping habits have been a little embarrasing. We hate to admit this, but our average go to bed time has been 8pm.!! John fights it to 9pm. The temptations of our cosy (although initial FREEZING) sleeping bags has been just too much.
Sue and John have taken great delight in rating the toilets out of 10 along the way. This wouldn't be so bad except they go into far too much detail on the rating criteria...!!
As expected we are meeting lots of internationals along the way. Some very enjoyable to be around, some not. Lots of Germans, Sweeds and Koreans, and a sprinkling of Aussies.
The weather looks to be clearing and we are hopeful of a clear day on Thursday when we climb Kalar Patar for our view of Everest.
The nights have varied from minus5 to minus15. The lodge dining rooms have been warm and there has only been one occasion where we have broken out our minus down jackets.
We are missing the other members of our team and wish they were here to see the scenery that we are now amongst. Todays walk from Dingboche to Loboche was simply splendid. 6000mtr plus giants in every direction.
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
From David via text.
450 mtrs altitude gain to Chukhung at 4800mtrs. Walk there and back tough. Slight headache.
John fast on the ups and Sue fast on the downs. Me just looking at the splendid scenery.
Big day tomorrow. Loboche at 4900mtrs.
No WiFi and only occasional mobile carrier. When I get a signal, texting updates to good mate Brian for him to update site.
Good weather today.
Hope Wayne, Peter and Robyn are going ok.
From Brian.
Another message from David has asked me to keep and eye on his email for messages from Wayne, Peter and Robyn on their progress to be added to this page.
Chukhung is up a valley away from the main track. Google Earth coordinates, cut and paste into the search box,
27°54'10.55"N 86°52'10.68"E
It's often suggested to take this walk to help in acclimatising for the higher altitudes, going up for the day and back down to a lower altitude "priming" the body for the altitude gains. Also stops them from lying around stuffing themselves with that Nepalese delicacy, Dhal Bhat, and getting fat and lazy, but we won't go there.
David mentions the splendid scenery on this stroll. As you can see on Google Earth, it truly is magnificent to see.
Tomorrow will see them walking through Dughla and just beyond, a hard and fairly steep climb up the glacier moraine. This is, from memory, a steep enough climb at sea level but at that altitude, it's a major struggle.
Tuesday 21st Feb. About 9:30am
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
From David.
On route to Laboche right now.
Cheers.
From Brian.Google Earth coordinates are,
Laboche 27°56'53.42"N 86°48'37.49"E
Gorak Shep 27°58'49.24"N 86°49'44.37"E
Kalla Pattar 27°59'35.22"N 86°49'39.21"E
Everest Base Camp 27°59'46.52"N 86°52'13.66"E
Tuesday 21st Feb. 7:48pm Melbourne time.
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
Just received a text from David, they are now in Laboche where there is WiFi available. Might be a dodgy signal but David is going to try to do an update.
Tuesday 21st Feb. 7.30 pm. Loboche (way up high in the Himalayas)
Hi all. We have come across our first WIFI in quite a few days. Special thanks to Brian in Melbourne for posting my updates from my text messages when I get occasional carrier service.
We have reached Loboche at 4900mtrs. All trekking reasonably strong. Some ever so slight headaches from altitude but appetites still fierce..! John is still fighting his head cold (more a runny nose) but is still walking strongly.
Sleeping habits have been a little embarrasing. We hate to admit this, but our average go to bed time has been 8pm.!! John fights it to 9pm. The temptations of our cosy (although initial FREEZING) sleeping bags has been just too much.
Sue and John have taken great delight in rating the toilets out of 10 along the way. This wouldn't be so bad except they go into far too much detail on the rating criteria...!!
As expected we are meeting lots of internationals along the way. Some very enjoyable to be around, some not. Lots of Germans, Sweeds and Koreans, and a sprinkling of Aussies.
The weather looks to be clearing and we are hopeful of a clear day on Thursday when we climb Kalar Patar for our view of Everest.
The nights have varied from minus5 to minus15. The lodge dining rooms have been warm and there has only been one occasion where we have broken out our minus down jackets.
We are missing the other members of our team and wish they were here to see the scenery that we are now amongst. Todays walk from Dingboche to Loboche was simply splendid. 6000mtr plus giants in every direction.
John en-route to Loboche at around 4800mtrs amsl
We had entertained the thought of crossing the Chola Pass into Gokyo, but it is currently closed due recent ice and snow.
Tomorrow is a short but difficult walk to Ghorak Shep (5100mtrs) which will be our highest camp.
Our Porters are good.....and bad. They love a drink each night but unfortunately don't put as much effort into hygeine. No further explanation required....!!! Gotta luv em.
I have just read out your comments to Sue and John. Laughs all round.
Wednesday. 22nd Feb. 2:45 pm Ghorak Shep
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
From David,
Arrive Ghorak Shep 5100 mtrs at 11:30 am.
John keen to do KP after lunch but Sue and I convinced him to hold off till morning.
This is going to be a very cold night. Germans say bedrooms at minus 10 at night..!
John and Sue had headaches this morning but not so bad now. No headache for me but rather slow getting here.
KP in the morning, then down down down.
Thursday 23rd Feb.
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
Copied from the Comments and Feedback page. R,P and W have arrived back in Kathmandu after a frustrating 3 nights in Lukla. Weather either bad in K or windy in the valley or foggy in Lukla. All doing well. Good to be back into warmer climate.
Watch that bloke at Paradise Lodge. I think he deliberately put us onto later planes so we had to linger longer.
Unable to log onto my email Dave so this is my only option. Please put this into the progress report.
Possibly be off to Pokhara on 25/2 and back into K on 28th.
Nema, head Sherpa was very tipsy on the way down from Namche. He slipped at least 3 times that I know about.
Thursday 23rd Feb. 10:05 am Ghorak Shep/Kala Pattar
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
From David.
3 of us on top Kalar Pattar. Hard climb and gale force winds
Tomorrow is a short but difficult walk to Ghorak Shep (5100mtrs) which will be our highest camp.
Our Porters are good.....and bad. They love a drink each night but unfortunately don't put as much effort into hygeine. No further explanation required....!!! Gotta luv em.
I have just read out your comments to Sue and John. Laughs all round.
Wednesday. 22nd Feb. 2:45 pm Ghorak Shep
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
From David,
Arrive Ghorak Shep 5100 mtrs at 11:30 am.
John keen to do KP after lunch but Sue and I convinced him to hold off till morning.
This is going to be a very cold night. Germans say bedrooms at minus 10 at night..!
John and Sue had headaches this morning but not so bad now. No headache for me but rather slow getting here.
KP in the morning, then down down down.
Thursday 23rd Feb.
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
Copied from the Comments and Feedback page. R,P and W have arrived back in Kathmandu after a frustrating 3 nights in Lukla. Weather either bad in K or windy in the valley or foggy in Lukla. All doing well. Good to be back into warmer climate.
Watch that bloke at Paradise Lodge. I think he deliberately put us onto later planes so we had to linger longer.
Unable to log onto my email Dave so this is my only option. Please put this into the progress report.
Possibly be off to Pokhara on 25/2 and back into K on 28th.
Nema, head Sherpa was very tipsy on the way down from Namche. He slipped at least 3 times that I know about.
Thursday 23rd Feb. 10:05 am Ghorak Shep/Kala Pattar
Brian@Weeroona doing the update
From David.
3 of us on top Kalar Pattar. Hard climb and gale force winds
Success. On top Kalar Pattar. 5545mtrs. Everest in the background.
Friday 24th Feb. 3.15pm. Namche Bazaar
Well, back in Namche and WIFI access.
Firstly, Wayne. Interesting reading your update. We really hope to catch you all in Kat before you fly out. So much to talk about.
Ok, where does one start? We have had the most incredible 2 days.
We arrived into Ghorak Shep (5100mtrs) on Wednesday afternoon on a glorious sunny afternoon. Sue and John were pushing to climb Kalar Patar (5545mtrs) straight away, but after some negotiation, I persuaded them to relax through the afternoon and do the climb fresh in the morning. Imagine our horror when we stayed awake all night listening to the wind nearly rip the roof of the lodge. It was truly gale force. I had a vision of Sue and John berating me in the morning of not being able to do the climb due wind or new cloud, particularly as the day before when they wanted to do it was perfect..!!
The morning presented clear skies but still very windy. We commenced the climb at 7.50am in minus 10deg. It was every bit as tough as I remember from previous times. John climbed strongly ahead of Sue and I. Great effort given is pesty head cold. It was as expected, walk 10 steps, stop for 2minutes, try to suck in air...!!.
John stopped just short of the top to wait for us so the 3 of us could climb the last 10mtrs together. The panorama was so incredible. Not only was Everest and its summit in full view, but its west ridge, south col, base camp, Khumbu Icefall etc. A full 360 panorama presented Himalayan giants and deep snow covered glaciers in all directions. It was amazing. But so was the wind...!! We were forced to hide down underneath some rocks just below the peak.
We took some photos and drank some hot tea that Sherpa Mingma had carried up for us. Then it was a quick retreat down, pack our bags and get to lower altitude, making it to Perishe (4300mtrs).
The trip down was accompanied by headaches and light headiness, but after a quick stop at Loboche (4900mtrs), we felt better.
Our sleep at Periche was heavenly, particularly as the previous 3 nights had averaged approx 2 hrs for each of us. Altitude....
Today, we walked 19.5klm from Perishe back into Namche, and tomorrow we are aiming for Lukla.
All busting for a shower.
Friday 24th Feb. 6.30pm. Namche Bazaar
The above update was made by a dirty, hungry, fatigued trekker. This addition 3hrs later is made by a freshly showered (bucket of hot water), recently fed and very content new trekker.
I earlier printed out all the responses and took them back to the lodge for John and Sue to read. We had a great laugh reading each of them. Your responses and support for us on this trip have been just tremendous, and very very funny. Thanks to all.
We are right now feeling so happy to be down to 3500mtrs. Life at 5000mtrs amsl takes its toll on all.
- Toilets that are frozen
- Toilets that are blocked and frozen
- Toilets that are blocked, over-flowing and frozen
- Frozen water bottles in the morning
- Frozen toothpaste
- Johns grumpy moods because he has a runny nose. etc etc and more frozen etcs.......
Wayne. As for delays out of Lukla.......welcome to Nepal. I'm sure there is a hidden rule that states that no tourist will fly out of Lukla on the day they intend to. 4 times for me mate, each one of them delayed. Don't forget my motto. "Nepal is an adventure, not a Holiday".... Things just love to go wrong at times. I'm sure you weren't fazed. Robyn....??
Neema having a few falls on the way down the Namche...?? Oh dear. Didn't I leave you the responsibility to make sure he remains sober each night....? I promise to put him through a drug and alcohol test when I next hire him. Given our own Sherpa Mingma has also been returning to lodges after dinner with very glassy eyes, perhaps I'm plagued with picking the real challenging ones...!
Again, thanks to all. Next update from Lukla
Saturday 25th Feb. 4pm. Lukla
Ok, the fun begins at Lukla...!
We walked from Namche today. Another long day. In fact our 3rd big day in a row. We are pretty well spent. Nice to be down to 2900mtrs. Our fingers are crossed for a departure back to Kathmandu tomorrow, and not suffer the delays that the other 3 members suffered.
The laughter between the 3 of us hasn't let up for a minute. Sue has a sense of humor that is banned in most countries, but not yet Nepal. John and I will be reporting her to local local authorities to see if we can restrict her future entry. In fact John has lost the battle to uphold his lofty standards and has now lowered himself to her gutter standards. The talk around the lodge dining rooms has become outright embarrassing. In fact, I have been forced to separate them on numerous occasions.
Stomachs have held out very well and this has been demonstrated from numerous gaseous emissions around the dining room fires as well as on the track. None from me of course.........
We got into Lukla today and headed straight to .......... Starbucks (yep, you heard me right) for a coffee. Not bad at all. And guess what is right next door to Starbucks? Gloria Jeans? Serious. All they need now is Hudsons.
Again, thanks for all your terrific comments. It has been a great source of anticipation accessing them.
Hopefully the next update will be from Kathmandu, and not from Lukla Starbucks.....!
Sunday 26th Feb. 1.30pm. Kathmandu
Well, back in Namche and WIFI access.
Firstly, Wayne. Interesting reading your update. We really hope to catch you all in Kat before you fly out. So much to talk about.
Ok, where does one start? We have had the most incredible 2 days.
We arrived into Ghorak Shep (5100mtrs) on Wednesday afternoon on a glorious sunny afternoon. Sue and John were pushing to climb Kalar Patar (5545mtrs) straight away, but after some negotiation, I persuaded them to relax through the afternoon and do the climb fresh in the morning. Imagine our horror when we stayed awake all night listening to the wind nearly rip the roof of the lodge. It was truly gale force. I had a vision of Sue and John berating me in the morning of not being able to do the climb due wind or new cloud, particularly as the day before when they wanted to do it was perfect..!!
The morning presented clear skies but still very windy. We commenced the climb at 7.50am in minus 10deg. It was every bit as tough as I remember from previous times. John climbed strongly ahead of Sue and I. Great effort given is pesty head cold. It was as expected, walk 10 steps, stop for 2minutes, try to suck in air...!!.
John stopped just short of the top to wait for us so the 3 of us could climb the last 10mtrs together. The panorama was so incredible. Not only was Everest and its summit in full view, but its west ridge, south col, base camp, Khumbu Icefall etc. A full 360 panorama presented Himalayan giants and deep snow covered glaciers in all directions. It was amazing. But so was the wind...!! We were forced to hide down underneath some rocks just below the peak.
We took some photos and drank some hot tea that Sherpa Mingma had carried up for us. Then it was a quick retreat down, pack our bags and get to lower altitude, making it to Perishe (4300mtrs).
The trip down was accompanied by headaches and light headiness, but after a quick stop at Loboche (4900mtrs), we felt better.
Our sleep at Periche was heavenly, particularly as the previous 3 nights had averaged approx 2 hrs for each of us. Altitude....
Today, we walked 19.5klm from Perishe back into Namche, and tomorrow we are aiming for Lukla.
All busting for a shower.
Friday 24th Feb. 6.30pm. Namche Bazaar
The above update was made by a dirty, hungry, fatigued trekker. This addition 3hrs later is made by a freshly showered (bucket of hot water), recently fed and very content new trekker.
I earlier printed out all the responses and took them back to the lodge for John and Sue to read. We had a great laugh reading each of them. Your responses and support for us on this trip have been just tremendous, and very very funny. Thanks to all.
We are right now feeling so happy to be down to 3500mtrs. Life at 5000mtrs amsl takes its toll on all.
- Toilets that are frozen
- Toilets that are blocked and frozen
- Toilets that are blocked, over-flowing and frozen
- Frozen water bottles in the morning
- Frozen toothpaste
- Johns grumpy moods because he has a runny nose. etc etc and more frozen etcs.......
Wayne. As for delays out of Lukla.......welcome to Nepal. I'm sure there is a hidden rule that states that no tourist will fly out of Lukla on the day they intend to. 4 times for me mate, each one of them delayed. Don't forget my motto. "Nepal is an adventure, not a Holiday".... Things just love to go wrong at times. I'm sure you weren't fazed. Robyn....??
Neema having a few falls on the way down the Namche...?? Oh dear. Didn't I leave you the responsibility to make sure he remains sober each night....? I promise to put him through a drug and alcohol test when I next hire him. Given our own Sherpa Mingma has also been returning to lodges after dinner with very glassy eyes, perhaps I'm plagued with picking the real challenging ones...!
Again, thanks to all. Next update from Lukla
Saturday 25th Feb. 4pm. Lukla
Ok, the fun begins at Lukla...!
We walked from Namche today. Another long day. In fact our 3rd big day in a row. We are pretty well spent. Nice to be down to 2900mtrs. Our fingers are crossed for a departure back to Kathmandu tomorrow, and not suffer the delays that the other 3 members suffered.
The laughter between the 3 of us hasn't let up for a minute. Sue has a sense of humor that is banned in most countries, but not yet Nepal. John and I will be reporting her to local local authorities to see if we can restrict her future entry. In fact John has lost the battle to uphold his lofty standards and has now lowered himself to her gutter standards. The talk around the lodge dining rooms has become outright embarrassing. In fact, I have been forced to separate them on numerous occasions.
Stomachs have held out very well and this has been demonstrated from numerous gaseous emissions around the dining room fires as well as on the track. None from me of course.........
We got into Lukla today and headed straight to .......... Starbucks (yep, you heard me right) for a coffee. Not bad at all. And guess what is right next door to Starbucks? Gloria Jeans? Serious. All they need now is Hudsons.
Again, thanks for all your terrific comments. It has been a great source of anticipation accessing them.
Hopefully the next update will be from Kathmandu, and not from Lukla Starbucks.....!
Sunday 26th Feb. 1.30pm. Kathmandu
Farewell to the support team at Paradise Lodge, Lukla.
Pictured - Kumar (Porter), Sherpa Mingma (Head Guide), Sue, Me, John and Sherpa Nima (Porter/Guide)
What a morning...!!! The anxiety and stress at Lukla can take years of your life. This morning was no different. Let me try to explain.
We are told last night that we are scheduled on Tara Airlines "3rd flight out" in the morning. The concern with that is that Lukla has been shutting down mid morning due winds, the result being that 2nd, 3rd and beyond flights are often cancelled. (=Stress).
Following the arrival and departure of the 1st Tara flight, we make our way around to the airport at 9am, only to be told that our so called "3rd flight" is in reality the 6th flight of the day!! Tara Airlines run 2 aircraft between Kathmandu and Lukla. When the two planes come in behind each other, the Nepalese for some reason rate this as a single "1st flight"...! uuuggghhhh. A quick arithmetic tells us therefore that our 3rd flight/ala 6th flight will probably come in at around midday, when the Himalayan winds will have long since shut down Lukla. (=Stress).
At this point, we become unhappy trekkers at the thought of missing today's departure and our Kathmandu shower, clean clothes and Pumpernikel Bakery. Oh, and in Lukla, when you miss a flight, you go straight to the END of the queue for the next day...!! (...It's an adventure, not a holiday....).
Now, while our shoulders are down and tears are welling, there happens to be an Agni Airways plane starting up its engines on the apron for its own return flight to Kathmandu..........with..........3 empty seats on it...!! We are offered these seats (we have to pay for them on the spot, then claim our Tara ticket refunds on return to Kat).
At the point of agreeing to this, the next 5 minutes become a blur. There is a frantic exchange of cash. Airport staff are running out to the plane and telling the pilot to hold off starting the 2nd engine. Our bags have been ripped from our hands and taken away....somewhere. More airport staff are screaming at us (in Nepalese) to run through the airport security and to the gate (what....no pat down...?). Security alarms are screaming at us...! Then we are being thrust out onto the apron and shoved into Agni Airways to Kathmandu, the existing passengers giving us a look of disapproval.
40minutes later, we are back in Kat still catching our breath from the dramas 40 min earlier. Great stuff..
No sooner have we checked into the Guest House, I walk out to purchase some new knock around clothes. Who should I find walking the streets? Wayne. "Where is Peter and Robyn"?, I say. "They're in Pokhora. They're due back tonight". "Why didn't you go with them"?. "No time......too many things to do and see around Kathmandu".
I think Wayne has fallen under the spell...... I knew he would.
A sad story (a sad TOILET story)
Poor John checked into his Lukla lodge at 3.30pm yesterday. His room had been recently renovated. Brand new bathroom. He couldn't resist completing what is best described as a good "post-trek sitting" on a brand new toilet. After his very satisfying effort, he pushed the flusher. Nothing.....silence.....zero....!! Water is turned off due maintenance until 6.30pm...!! Now Sue (who has a sense of humour banned in many countries) uses this as a source of severe humour for the remainder of the day...!! Lesson learnt for John. When using a Western Toilet in the middle of Nepal, perform a test flush first.
....John didn't return to his room between 3.30p and 6.30pm...
Monday 27th Feb. 4.40pm. Kathmandu.
A leisurely day today. The entire team just relaxing around Thamel. Some further shopping and returning of hired sleeping bags and down jackets back to the hire shops. And for some....a recovery from a big night from our team being reunited after a week.
Dinner at our favourate Thai restaurant just down the road from the Guest House. We were joined by Nick (from Newcastle) and Suzanne (from Kansas City) who have been traveling the world together for 9 months. Sue, John and I met them on Kalar Patar 5 days ago. Nice couple.
Sue, John and I are likely to travel to Pokhora tomorrow for 2 nights, so will again farewell the other team members in the morning as they depart for Bangkok on Wednesday.
The 3 of us walked to the Thai office on Durbar Marg today and brought forward our Kathmandu to Bangkok flight from Sunday to Saturday. This will allow us to catch up with Wayne in Bangkok, and also avoid the original Kathmandu to Melbourne leg, which included a nasty 6hr transit in Bangkok. (what was I thinking when I booked that.....??).
Kathmandu was very warm today. Not Melbourne like, but warm nonetheless.
Tuesday 28th Feb. 10.50am. Kathmandu
A beautiful morning in Kathmandu. Wayne, Peter and Robyn were up at 5.30am for their booked Everest Flight. For $170, you get an hr flight along the eastern Himalayan range with commentary on what mountains you are skimming by. Peter reported that they didn't get as close to Everest as they may have liked, but still got breathtaking views nonetheless. Said it was worth every cent.
Sue, John and I have postponed our trip to Pokhora until tomorrow.
And just to remind us that we are a long way from home, a bomb went off yesterday just 20min from Thamel, killing 3 and injuring others.
Even peaceful Kathmandu is not 100% spared of such horrors.
Dinner last night at Everest Steak House. Excellent
Wednesday 29th Feb. 9.20pm. Pokhara
We bid another farewell to the team this morning. Wayne, Peter and Robyn heading back to Bangkok at midday, while Sue, John and I headed west for the 6hr drive to Pokhara. Hoping their departure from Kathmandu was both without hassle and with a sense of sadness..!
The trip to Pokhara was long. Steep drop offs, traffic, truck fumes, but also magnificent scenery, and the opportunity for John to see some real and raw country Nepal.
A leisurely day of activities tomorrow, before returning to Kathmandu on Friday via 40min flight.
Thursday 1st Mar. 8.35pm. Pokhara
We are told last night that we are scheduled on Tara Airlines "3rd flight out" in the morning. The concern with that is that Lukla has been shutting down mid morning due winds, the result being that 2nd, 3rd and beyond flights are often cancelled. (=Stress).
Following the arrival and departure of the 1st Tara flight, we make our way around to the airport at 9am, only to be told that our so called "3rd flight" is in reality the 6th flight of the day!! Tara Airlines run 2 aircraft between Kathmandu and Lukla. When the two planes come in behind each other, the Nepalese for some reason rate this as a single "1st flight"...! uuuggghhhh. A quick arithmetic tells us therefore that our 3rd flight/ala 6th flight will probably come in at around midday, when the Himalayan winds will have long since shut down Lukla. (=Stress).
At this point, we become unhappy trekkers at the thought of missing today's departure and our Kathmandu shower, clean clothes and Pumpernikel Bakery. Oh, and in Lukla, when you miss a flight, you go straight to the END of the queue for the next day...!! (...It's an adventure, not a holiday....).
Now, while our shoulders are down and tears are welling, there happens to be an Agni Airways plane starting up its engines on the apron for its own return flight to Kathmandu..........with..........3 empty seats on it...!! We are offered these seats (we have to pay for them on the spot, then claim our Tara ticket refunds on return to Kat).
At the point of agreeing to this, the next 5 minutes become a blur. There is a frantic exchange of cash. Airport staff are running out to the plane and telling the pilot to hold off starting the 2nd engine. Our bags have been ripped from our hands and taken away....somewhere. More airport staff are screaming at us (in Nepalese) to run through the airport security and to the gate (what....no pat down...?). Security alarms are screaming at us...! Then we are being thrust out onto the apron and shoved into Agni Airways to Kathmandu, the existing passengers giving us a look of disapproval.
40minutes later, we are back in Kat still catching our breath from the dramas 40 min earlier. Great stuff..
No sooner have we checked into the Guest House, I walk out to purchase some new knock around clothes. Who should I find walking the streets? Wayne. "Where is Peter and Robyn"?, I say. "They're in Pokhora. They're due back tonight". "Why didn't you go with them"?. "No time......too many things to do and see around Kathmandu".
I think Wayne has fallen under the spell...... I knew he would.
A sad story (a sad TOILET story)
Poor John checked into his Lukla lodge at 3.30pm yesterday. His room had been recently renovated. Brand new bathroom. He couldn't resist completing what is best described as a good "post-trek sitting" on a brand new toilet. After his very satisfying effort, he pushed the flusher. Nothing.....silence.....zero....!! Water is turned off due maintenance until 6.30pm...!! Now Sue (who has a sense of humour banned in many countries) uses this as a source of severe humour for the remainder of the day...!! Lesson learnt for John. When using a Western Toilet in the middle of Nepal, perform a test flush first.
....John didn't return to his room between 3.30p and 6.30pm...
Monday 27th Feb. 4.40pm. Kathmandu.
A leisurely day today. The entire team just relaxing around Thamel. Some further shopping and returning of hired sleeping bags and down jackets back to the hire shops. And for some....a recovery from a big night from our team being reunited after a week.
Dinner at our favourate Thai restaurant just down the road from the Guest House. We were joined by Nick (from Newcastle) and Suzanne (from Kansas City) who have been traveling the world together for 9 months. Sue, John and I met them on Kalar Patar 5 days ago. Nice couple.
Sue, John and I are likely to travel to Pokhora tomorrow for 2 nights, so will again farewell the other team members in the morning as they depart for Bangkok on Wednesday.
The 3 of us walked to the Thai office on Durbar Marg today and brought forward our Kathmandu to Bangkok flight from Sunday to Saturday. This will allow us to catch up with Wayne in Bangkok, and also avoid the original Kathmandu to Melbourne leg, which included a nasty 6hr transit in Bangkok. (what was I thinking when I booked that.....??).
Kathmandu was very warm today. Not Melbourne like, but warm nonetheless.
Tuesday 28th Feb. 10.50am. Kathmandu
A beautiful morning in Kathmandu. Wayne, Peter and Robyn were up at 5.30am for their booked Everest Flight. For $170, you get an hr flight along the eastern Himalayan range with commentary on what mountains you are skimming by. Peter reported that they didn't get as close to Everest as they may have liked, but still got breathtaking views nonetheless. Said it was worth every cent.
Sue, John and I have postponed our trip to Pokhora until tomorrow.
And just to remind us that we are a long way from home, a bomb went off yesterday just 20min from Thamel, killing 3 and injuring others.
Even peaceful Kathmandu is not 100% spared of such horrors.
Dinner last night at Everest Steak House. Excellent
Wednesday 29th Feb. 9.20pm. Pokhara
We bid another farewell to the team this morning. Wayne, Peter and Robyn heading back to Bangkok at midday, while Sue, John and I headed west for the 6hr drive to Pokhara. Hoping their departure from Kathmandu was both without hassle and with a sense of sadness..!
The trip to Pokhara was long. Steep drop offs, traffic, truck fumes, but also magnificent scenery, and the opportunity for John to see some real and raw country Nepal.
A leisurely day of activities tomorrow, before returning to Kathmandu on Friday via 40min flight.
Thursday 1st Mar. 8.35pm. Pokhara
R&R in Pokhara
Great day of activities. Paragliding for 1 hour over Pokhara this morning, and scootering around the township and lake this afternoon. I promised I would always avoid hiring motor bikes in foreign countries, but today I got out voted, and enjoyed it immensely. John is a very good trail bike rider, trouble is that someone needed to remind him that he was on a scooter...!! With no road rules, with cows, chickens, dogs and severe pot holes all over the roads, and with no idea how to approach and get through a typical busy Nepalese intersection, it all made for a great couple of hours.
Topped off by a brilliant Thai dinner tonight, we have had a truly great day.
Text from Peter this morning. The 3 of them are in Bangkok battling the humidity. Apparently Patpong is a real eye opener....!!
Saturday 3rd Mar. 9.30am. Kathmandu
Well, it's always a tough day when those of us who love Nepal prepare to leave it. The three of us just finished our final breakfast in Nepal and chatted about the last few weeks. It was only 3 weeks ago today that we assembled at Melbourne airport for our long awaited departure, yet in those 3 weeks we have done so much. It feels like weeks since we were in the mountains, but it has only been a week. It feels a life time ago that we stood on top of Kalat Patar, but in reality, it was only 11 days ago...!!
And Kathmandu has changed so much from what it was 3 weeks ago when we arrived. There is clearly more people in town now as Nepal gears up for its March/April trekking season. More people around the Guest House and last night at Rum Doodle Restaurant, we couldn't help but notice how full it was compared to our exclusive "private sitting" a few weeks ago with the team.
We have continued to meet some terrific people along the way and this has been the source of some very enjoyable evenings, either around a restaurant table or in the Kathmandu Guest House courtyard. It's been yet another terrific Nepal experience.
We are due to go to the airport at 11am for our departure to Bangkok and catch up with Wayne, before we depart for home tomorrow at midnight. Peter and Robyn have already arrived safely home.
Next update from Bangkok.
Sunday 4th Mar. 2.04am. Bangkok
Laying awake in hot but expensive Bangkok room trying to work out why aircon won't cool the room below 22deg...!gggggrrrrrrr......
Sunday 4th Mar. 11.05pm. Bangkok airport
FINAL POST.
Topped off by a brilliant Thai dinner tonight, we have had a truly great day.
Text from Peter this morning. The 3 of them are in Bangkok battling the humidity. Apparently Patpong is a real eye opener....!!
Saturday 3rd Mar. 9.30am. Kathmandu
Well, it's always a tough day when those of us who love Nepal prepare to leave it. The three of us just finished our final breakfast in Nepal and chatted about the last few weeks. It was only 3 weeks ago today that we assembled at Melbourne airport for our long awaited departure, yet in those 3 weeks we have done so much. It feels like weeks since we were in the mountains, but it has only been a week. It feels a life time ago that we stood on top of Kalat Patar, but in reality, it was only 11 days ago...!!
And Kathmandu has changed so much from what it was 3 weeks ago when we arrived. There is clearly more people in town now as Nepal gears up for its March/April trekking season. More people around the Guest House and last night at Rum Doodle Restaurant, we couldn't help but notice how full it was compared to our exclusive "private sitting" a few weeks ago with the team.
We have continued to meet some terrific people along the way and this has been the source of some very enjoyable evenings, either around a restaurant table or in the Kathmandu Guest House courtyard. It's been yet another terrific Nepal experience.
We are due to go to the airport at 11am for our departure to Bangkok and catch up with Wayne, before we depart for home tomorrow at midnight. Peter and Robyn have already arrived safely home.
Next update from Bangkok.
Sunday 4th Mar. 2.04am. Bangkok
Laying awake in hot but expensive Bangkok room trying to work out why aircon won't cool the room below 22deg...!gggggrrrrrrr......
Sunday 4th Mar. 11.05pm. Bangkok airport
FINAL POST.
Sad faces. Bangkok check-in for flight home.
Sitting in a cafe at the airport awaiting our flight home (at 12.15am). Not sure where the others are, but suspect they are doing the same.
Some last minute shopping and a massage today. Bangkok warm and sticky, but barable.
Thanks again, and well done to Peter, Robyn, Wayne, Sue and John for coming along on this trip. It has been very enjoyable.
Thanks to Brian for helping me with my updates when I had limited access.
And thanks to ALL who followed our progress and amused us with your comments. It was great reading these and gave us something to do and laugh about when we were freezing up high.
Look forward to catching up soon.
Some last minute shopping and a massage today. Bangkok warm and sticky, but barable.
Thanks again, and well done to Peter, Robyn, Wayne, Sue and John for coming along on this trip. It has been very enjoyable.
Thanks to Brian for helping me with my updates when I had limited access.
And thanks to ALL who followed our progress and amused us with your comments. It was great reading these and gave us something to do and laugh about when we were freezing up high.
Look forward to catching up soon.
2012 Trip. Comments and feedback
29-Dec-2011 Wayne.
I would like to make a comment regarding our illustrious leader. I am impressed on how organised and positive he is. Every time i am on a walk or have completed a walk he provides nothing but encouragement or praise. He has not once told me how stuffed I look. I am wondering what’s in it for him. Is he trying to drive me into an early grave and after my money? Who knows what his motives are!
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30-Dec-2011 Ian Colling
"Hey Dave. Congratulations on the site, it is most informative and enlightening, makes me wish I was going with you. But sadly that won't be the case.
All the best to you and your team for your remaining training exercises and also the trip/trek.
Stay safe.
Ian C
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1-Jan-2012 Wayne.
The body of me in your front page is flattering. Me on a rope is definitely imaginary.
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2-Jan-2012 Neighbour.
Great work on the redirection with the website, you must have a great IT administrator assisting with the infrastructure on your domain.
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13-Jan-2012 David.
"Hi all. Thanks for your responses. It makes the task of creating and maintaining this website all that little bit more worth it.
Thanks to Neighbour for helping me get my new domain setup and redirecting. Please don't send me a bill, because I know what your hourly rate is...!!!
Ian. Still time to talk yourself into coming along mate...
Wayne. Haven't I told you that the climb to Namche is all on rope and crampons..? Thanks for below comment. No hidden motives, other than to see you enjoy your Nepal experience. "
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8-Feb-2012 Vealey.
Hi Guys, Sue hope the elevator & other Mt Taylor walks have you in good condition for your trek. We envious of you all particularly as it looks like it is warming up at Lobuche next week with a balmy top temp of -5 degrees.
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9-Feb-2012 Bel.
Skanky you suxxxx-have a great trek, heres to momos, minimal showers, squat toilets and dirty hair... Have a ball.
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11-Feb-2012 Brad.
Hi mum and uncle David, good luck
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11-Feb-2012 Ian Colling.
"Well guys and girls, its day ONE and you are probably already at Tulla.
Dave, look forward to following the exploits of you and your band of merry men/women. Look after the Old Boy and make sure he behaves himself. Pete and Robin you be good too and do as you are told.
Enjoy and stay safe, see you when you get back
Ian C"
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12-Feb-2012 Brian@Weeroona
"No Multimedia on the Bangkok flight!
This is shaping up to be an epic walk!"
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13-Feb-2012 James, Brad & Liam.
"When will you start the countdown showing the return date into Melbourne.
Getting sick of this hot weather here!!"
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13-Feb-2012 Barry McCall.
"Hello John boy and all the rest of the team, hope all is going well, have fun mate
your big mucker Baz "
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13-Feb-2012 Bel.
Hey Skanky, how exciting you are in Nepal, you still suxxxx, looking forward to reading the upcoming reports as you begin your trek. Will be thinking of you everyday up,up,up and down, up down...LOL
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13-Feb-2012 Vealey.
"Sue, Only a few days before flying to Lukla. As you are landing you should be chanting ""Om Mani Padmi Hum, Om Mani Padmi Hum........""
and when walking up the Namche Hill - ""the mental bus is coming, the mental bus is coming......"""
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14-Feb-2012 Barry.
Dave i always new John liked a monkey or two, i hope he used protection lol, as for John being grumpy,,, i bet he was that mad he could have crushed a grape, sounds like you guys are ready and up for this trip so enjoy ..
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14-Feb-2012 Sue.
Hi Brad and Liam. Great to talk to you today and well done with the swimming. I'll try and call in a few days once we start the trek. Love you both. Mum xxx
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14-Feb-2012 Sue.
Happy Valentines day, James. Thanks for my Turkish Delight.
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14-Feb-2012 Sue
"Hi Veales and Bel, Thanks for the comment. Doesn't take long to get the feel for Thamal. Days are mild but by around 3pm, there's a real chill in the air. Saving the down jacket for the mountain tho. Early flight to Lukla Wednesday. Cheers guys.
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14-Feb-2012 David.
"Thanks all for your comments.
Barry. John saw your response, had a laugh and said to say hello. His Blackberry is not connecting from here and he's grumpy about it. Takes it out on the local monkeys...!!
Bel and Vealey. Sue tells me you have been frequent visitors to here, so I guess you can relate to a lot of what we are saying. Great that your following our journey.
Brian. Boy they are a fussy and demanding lot. Most of them refused to turn right when they walked on the plane, claiming they only normally turn left..!! They weren't aware that there were actually seats to the right.
Ian. The 'old boy' is having a great time, although his knee reminded him today that he still needs to take it easy.
Cheers all
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14-Feb-2012. maryann.
"John. I know you are not into monkeys just remember robert in his kilt.
dont be crushing his grapes when you see him in aussie
he might need them( for the videos) nudge nudge,wink,wink.
to all the gang take care and enjoy .
l.o.l maryann ,ron "
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15-Feb-2012 Lynda.
"Sue, crude?!! You must have the wrong person!!!
Now mole, keep your language to a minimum and have a great time.
Love you, mole and stay safe.
The other mole. xxx"
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15-Feb-2012 Pommy.
Hi Gav, Hope you landed o.k at Lukla, I have been sweating on that one for you. Have a fantastic trek and remember weather could not be as bad as the Gold Coast. Hope you packed your razor. Good Luck and keep it clean.
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15-Feb-2012 James.
"Sue the answer was try another machine, or another card.
Good luck for the start of the trek."
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15-Feb-2012 Billy Richmond
Jonny Boy, I thought you were over the monkey phase lol, stay safe bro and have a cracking trip...........remember to wrap up the important bits !! x
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16-Feb-2012 Graham.
Good luck and enjoy to you all. Wish I was there. PS John surprise you baby (KTM) does go over 200 kph.....thanks to Franny for the loan of the keys. Give us a wave from the top
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16-Feb-2012 Frances.
Hi honey remember I can see what your spending!! Just had a lovely conversation with Citibank, charged interest for making a payment a day early!!! And guess what they only wanna speak to you to refund so if you get a call from them while on the mountain be nice xx
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17-Feb-2012 maryann.
"Hi john, gang
we are going out with karen barry on saturday. as you know John we will be
hearing a few people shouting (PHAKING) we will think abouy you everytime
we hear the ph word, so you will be with us all night,
great to hear you are all having a good laugh makes the hard times a bit easier.love to all . me and him xx
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17-Feb-2012 Brian.
"Namche! Well done. Everest View Hotel for cold tea and biscuits next I hope.
I hope you get a chance to show your mob the Hillary school and hospital in Kunde.
And don't forget the ""airstrip"" that drops off into the river valley."
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17-Feb-2012 Frances.
"Looking froward tae seeing Rod tomorrow drawing the line at donning a Celtic strip, see u Jimmy bunnets sourced for all attending will think of u all in our pleasant 28 heat. Vline train is the chosen mode of transport as Josh said can take forever in the car so will park up at Gisborne n party on frm there u all have fun in the snow x Frances
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17-Feb-2012 Wobbo.
"David, Its good to see that you HAVE learn't from other life experiences.
The fact the you said that your hanging back with the others, shows that you have learn't not to chase a ""Carroll "" over the Mountains. From memory, last time you tried this was over Mount Hotham!
Whlie chasing another ""Carroll"" on your beloved CBR Motorcycle, it parted company with you and unloaded you not so gracefully on to the road.
Enjoy and be safe"
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17-Feb-2012 Terry Lover
David, its a shame you had to trade down from the Territory just so you could trek to Nepal.
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17-Feb-2012 Barry.
Sounds like all you guys are going good, have fun be happy stay safe ...
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18-Feb-2012 Wayne.
"Sue, Dave and John have now separated from Robyn, Peter and myself. S, D and J headed off to Tangbouche while R,P and W tried for better view of Everest than yesterday . Little better but intermittent cloud. Then we went shopping much to P's horror.R,P and W head down from Namche tomorrow and hope to reach Lukla 20th Feb with flight back to Kathmandu 21st.
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18-Feb-2012 Julie.
Hi to all the heroic trekkers. Sorry to read Wayne's knee has had a painful setback. Hope all comes good, and the cloud cover parts for your view of Everest. Always have a chuckle with your comments Dave. Good luck to all with your successful, fulfilling, rewarding and breathtaking trekking. Hope it's a trip of a lifetime! Luv, Julie xxx
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18-Feb-2012 Richard.
Hi All....hope you are all well ...with no squirty bum as Sue so elegantly puts it !.....hopefully the clouds and the altitude sickenss stay well away and you all make it up the last hill to Base Camp.......i'm guessing it's not the same Mingma we had 24 years ago!,...anyway have a J%^%$ for me ...cheers
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18-Feb-2012 Billy.
"Johnny B the Explorer, leading from the front with a smile, cracking jokes and having fun, Dave check his passport think you might have an imposter !! lol :-)
Stay safe bro wish I was with you, i'd do anything to escape the ribbing over the Rangers !!
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18-Feb-2012 Barry.
"hello team,
shame about the cloud but such is life, sounds like you guys are getting down to business with a smile on your face,s (good stuff) hope you enjoy your first Everest shower and it was as good as my nice long soak in the bath :) "
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18-Feb-2012 Bian@Weeroona
Meant to say that I wouldn't be surprised if you find wifi at the Tyanboche monastery. Looking forward to another update.
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18-Feb-2012 Brian @Weeroona
"Good old Nepal, cloudy one day and snowing the next!
I wonder if you will be lucky enough to see a bit of snow coming down from the Tyangboche monastery.
Don't forget to look over the valley to see Phortse and the mountain side track coming from there to Pangboche. That's a great walking track.
Pleased to read that you took a look at Hillarys school."
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19-Feb-2012 Frances.
"Home in 1 piece from Rod, you'll be glad to know I was on best behaviour drinking water between each wine.Successfully smuggled in the supplies they were charging $45 for a bottle o bubbly!!
Josh & Cara were great letting us stay over in the house.
Back at ours deciding what to do today, shopping spree me thinks.
David & Sue feel for u 2 if he's sick n miserable feed him beer n he'll forget about it."
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19-Feb-2012 Brian@Weeroona
"Although the weather hasn't allowed good viewing of Everest for the team, checking the Lubouche weather for the next few days indicates an improvement. I've texted the info to David (I now have tendonitis of the thumbs) to cheer the team on.
There is also no moon and I've suggested that they stop wimping out and get themselves outside to look at the stars. David replied from his -20 deg sleeping bag so I guess that's one suggestion that won't be followed up!
Perhaps, R, P and W will get a better look at Everest from Namche as the weather starts to clear."
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20-Feb-2012 Barry.
crush 2 grapes, my my JB is in a grumpy mood lol, the reason he is walking way out in front is because he will have 2 great big bits of tissue stuck up his nostrils to stop his poor wee nose running, hope it clears up (the weather not your nose JB) so you all get some great views of Everest..
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21-Feb-2012 Brian@Weeroona
"To Brad and Liam.
I don't think your Mum will be able to answer for a couple of days because there may not be any Internet access where they are going.
They left Dingboche this morning and should be in Gorak Shep this evening, Tuesday 21st Feb. If the weather is clear, they will probably walk up Kalla Pattar first for the views. I don't know if they intend to try to walk to Everest Base Camp on the same day, it will be a very big day if they do as it is quite a long walk at that altitude.
If you look at David's ""Follow our progress"" page, I have entered the coordinates for EBC in Google Earth.
I'm expecting to receive a text message from David tonight which I will post on the page as soon as I get it but it won't be until late. Our time is 5hrs 15 minutes ahead of theirs.
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21-Feb-2012 Brad & Liam.
"Mum how many more days till you get to base camp.
Do you still like the cold weather more than the hot?
XXX"
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22-Feb-2012 Vealey.
"Hi Sue, Sounds like all is good except a little chilly. Bel & I had steaks at the Main & while we were there we saw 2 very well behave boys with their father (Jimbo). So well mannered & polite! Our steaks were delicious with fresh salad & mashed garlic potatoes, yummy. Suggest when you get back to Thamel to try the steak at Jatra in JP school road. Apparently the best steak in all of Kathmandu.
Hope you get over to Gokyo. Take care & have fun..."
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22-Feb-2012 Frances.
Forgot to add its at Gurkhas in Richmond xx
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22-Feb-2012 Frances.
Groupon deal of the day $19 for a "sumptious" 3 course including glass of wine should I get you 1 each or do you reckon you'll be giving the Nepalese food a wide berth for a few months?? Reckon we could be on the parma for dinner tonight.
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22-Feb-2012 Barry.
sounds as though things are going well for you guys (good stuff) and as usual JB is at his best when it comes to toilet talk, i give him a 10 out of 10 for his patter .. lol .... (only joking my mucker) stay strong keep smilling .
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23-Feb-2012 Wayne.
"R,P and W have arrived back in Kathmandu after a frustrating 3 nights in Lukla. Weather either bad in K or windy in the valley or foggy in Lukla. All doing well. Good to be bck into warmer climate. Watch that bloke at Paradise Lodge. I think he deliberately put us onto later planes so we had to linger longer. Unable to log onto my email Dave so this is my only option. Please put this into the progress report. Possibly be off to Pokhara on 25/2 and back into K on 28th.
Nema, head sherpa was very tipsy on the way down from Namche. He slipped at least 3 times that I know about."
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23-Feb-2012 Brad, Liam, James.
Hope the weather is great for your last Hill day.
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24-Feb-2012 Sue.
"Lynda skank, washed the hair for the first time in ????? Didn't quite get the dreadlock stage, but not far from it. Two nights ago our bedrooms were -10 degrees, we are now in a warm balmy -2 in Namche.
Veales. You forget just how hard the climb is. Gorek Shop to KP was literally 20 steps then stop for 20 seconds.
James, stop eating out and cook."
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24-Feb-2012 Sue.
James, you told me you've home cooked for you and the boys every night!!!! I'd kill for a Steak from the Main. Not happy to settle for a Yak Steak, although it is on the menu.
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24-Feb-2012 Billy.
JB - Proud of you kid, always knew you'de make it to the top some time in life lol :-)
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24-Feb-2012 Vealey.
Yeehaaa!!! Well done Sue & the guys. No more sqat toilets all western now & hot showers....
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24-Feb-2012 Lynda.
"Congratulations Mole!!!
What an achievement.
Have a good feed and a good wash when you get down!!
Cant wait to see you and hear about your adventures!!
Well done girl
Lynda"
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24-Feb-2012 Anne (Groves).
"Hi Guys, It's been great keeping up with your progress - fantastic effort to you all for reaching your goals - I'm sure they'll be many stories to tell and memories for the future.
Glad to hear Wayne, Peter & Robyn have finally made it back to Kat & Dave, Sue & John - gather you are on the descent now. Did I mention that it is going to be 35 here today????????? Stay safe!"
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25-Feb-2012 Sue.
Ricky Ford. There's no reason why you couldn't have joined us on this trip. Im sure you could have cancelled your manicure and re-scheduled it for March. Your so soft. lol
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25-Feb-2012 michelle winning.
Hi all, reading all your adventures and it sounds amazing. Heard last night that Louise is going in 2014. Brian and I will seriously have to start saving to maybe join you. Hope all ends well See you, Dave when you get back. Suzi and all keeping busy and they send their love.
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25-Feb-2012 Ian C
"Well guys you've been gone two weeks now, time has gone fast here. Been following your reports and WOW (that's not you Doobie) what a time you must be having.
Looking forward to catching up at the Bowlo on your return. "
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25-Feb-2012 Frances. "Well done all
Sounds like the only thing moving well for a while was John's dripping nose!!
Be thinking of you when I take Charky to Port Melbourne to cool down today xxx"
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25-Feb-2012 Robbo.
"Well done Guys!
David, does Louise know you took her gloves!"
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25-Feb-2012 David.
Very funny "Wobbo"
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26-Feb-2012 Brian@Weeroona
"In Lukla already! I guess you can't wait to get back to the fleshpots of Kathmandu. Although, it does sound like one would not have to go very far in Lukla to get into trouble, Starbucks, Gloria Jeans indeed, hmmph!
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26-Feb-2012 Veales.
"Sue, You are too kind. For me its more like 1 step, 10 breaths while having a cry, pooing myself, having a panic attack, hurling abuse at Bel, having another cry, 1 more step, 10 breaths & so on.....
Hopefully when you read this you are all back in KTM. Loved the updates, comments & feedback. Thanks David & Brian."
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26-Feb-2012 Frances.
"Baz, he's not back yet live in hope!!
Went to city with my neices last night, very well behaved PJ O'Briens was fab there till kicking out time the younger generation r suffering today was thinking of you while dancing the night away xx"
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26-Feb-2012 Barry.
congrats to one and all, well done you lot i am chuffed for you,s and especially my good mucker JB,
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26-Feb-2012 Barry.
Ps.... Oi JB does this mean i don't get your bike ? Lol
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27-Feb-2012 Brian@Weeroona
"Oh boy, David. It seems to me that any future trips to Nepal should be of two classes, one where full (fly?) blown toilet humour will be the order of the day and another for the more refined walker, like me for instance!
I can imagine the scene at Lukla with you all running around getting on that flight, pretty fortunate and I bet it did bring a few disapproving looks from those still waiting. Still, it's about the quick and the dead, or in this case those left behind."
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27-Feb-2012 David.
Hi Michelle. Good to hear from you. Hope you and Brian have enjoyed following our progress. It's been a great trip, made even better by the constant humour amongst the team. I think the laughter helps to keep you warm when you are up high. See you when we get back
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27-Feb-2012 James.
"David, I was told that you have been the cause of a new trekking trend with the Korean people, they now wear ear muff's to the dinning room, so they can't hear your explosions. "
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27-Feb-2012 David.
James. You already know that I could not possibly be guilty of such acts. Other members of the team however can not claim such innocence....
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27-Feb-2012 David.
"Hi Brian. Some of the chat between Sue and John could not EVER be written into this site. Most of the time quite funny, other times outright disgusting..!
Sue will be banned from future trips. "
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1-Mar-2012 John Gerrring.
Thanks Dave for the great commentary. Clearly, an adventure from Kathmandu and upwards. Enjoy your last few days. John
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2-Mar-2012 wayne.
Peter, Robyn and Wayne did river cruise, yesterday, through canals and residential areas to Reclining Buddha (I know, some of you are thinking that I was the model). Peter and Robyn departed safely this morning for Melbourne. Wayne did day tour to 14th century ruins and temples at Ayutthaya in Thailand. Dave, Sue and John booked into The Tawana Hotel Bangkok to meet up with Wayne tomorrow night 3rd March. Home about 1.30pm on Monday.
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1-Mar-2012 David
"Hi John. Thanks for update. We've had an absolute ball today in Pokhara.
Paragliding this morning and scooter hire this afternoon. Good laughs.....again.
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3-Mar-2012 David.
"Hi Barry. Just showed John your comment over his breakfast.
A few more laughs.
Tells me you were a Fireblade owner. Me too, until I broke it (and almost myself) going over the mountains in Victoria."
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3-Mar-2012 Barry.
"Hello David, Yip i love the Fireblade (best bike in the world) i have moved away from it for a while but deffo will get another,, just giving all the lads a chance to keep up with me (for now).
Safe trip home to you all ...
talk soon JB"
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3-Mar-2012 Barry.
"good to hear you people are enjoying some R n R after your climb, as for JB being a good let alone a very good off roader i beg to differ, i have only ever done off roading once when i was in Oz visiting good friends and JB took me out on the dirt bikes.. HE TRIED TO KILL ME (ask him about it) it will give you a laugh... all because i was fasted and could jump higher than poor JB, he took it hard lol.
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3-Mar-2012 Barry.
Faster not fasted ...... sorry
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4-Mar-2012 Brian@Weeroona
"Quote: Laying awake in hot but expensive Bangkok room trying to work out why aircon won't cool the room below 22deg...!
gggggrrrrrrr......
You poor thing!
It's either too hot or too cold, I don't know how you manage!
Perhaps it's an age thing but it's no good asking me."
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