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Wed 8th Mar. Final blog for 2017

8/3/2017

6 Comments

 
Well, as Sue reported last month, all good things often come to an end. We are packed up and now ready to depart Nepal. Glenn, Steve and I depart shortly for Bangkok and John, Matt and Dan depart back to Dubai later this afternoon.
We've had our last coffee at our favourite Himalayan Java and have started to say our farewells to the KGH staff who always look after us.
We visited good friend Uttam from near-by Moonlight Hotel yesterday afternoon and received a tour of his motel and the great progress he has achieved. Perhaps some future stays there..!!!

Looking back over this 2017 EBC trek, a few things come to mind. The most significant aspect of this trip was the weather. Putting aside our 1 day delay flying into Lukla, we have had perhaps the best weather that I have ever had on a trek...! Every day brilliant blue sky and not overly cold at night (compared to what it's been before). Looking at the forecast over the next week, there is some poor weather forecast up around Everest, so we were very fortunate to get what we got.

The group were very funny. I'm not sure I remember having so many laughs. Even on some of the big climbs, we often found ourselves doubled over in laughter (not easy when you are trying to suck in oxygen). Great group.

The groups pre-trip training really showed up on the trek. Lobouche to Gorak Shep and up Kalar Pattar in one day is a tough workout, but the team completed it strongly. Then the 3 solid days back to Lukla were completed very well. Well done team.

It was devastating to lose Simi and Shailendra. I wanted them both up on KP with us. I've never lost someone part way up and knew it would happen sooner or later. It's still not a good feeling to waive some of your team members good-bye.

The happy hour drinks down by Pokhara Lake were a highlight. With the sun setting over the lake or with a rain storm rolling in, the setting was just brilliant.

To all those who followed us on our blog and who sent us encouraging or funny messages, we all thank you. They were great to read around the lodge heaters. And thanks to Sue (Didi) for helping out with the blog and in particularly when we were out of contact.

Some of us arrive back into Melb around 8.30pm Friday, while the boys arrive into Melb from Dubai on Saturday morning. Then it's back to normal life. 

2017 EBC........a good one.

Namaste.
6 Comments

Mon 6th Mar. This R&R stuff is tough..!!

6/3/2017

7 Comments

 
PictureSteve comes in for a landing.
A reasonable full day at Pokhara. Nice breakfast and coffee this morning, then the other lads went paragliding. Great views of the Annapurna range, although Matt wasn't happy that his flight only lasted 12min...!! No sympathy from Steve..!!
Matt also ordered an iced coffee this morning and received exactly that..!! Cold coffee with ice. Again, no sympathy from Steve...!!
Then the 5 of us each hired a motorcycle and rode for a few hours far beyond Pokhara lake. Good fun and a few laughs, although we rode on roads that the scooters weren't really designed to ride on..!!
Right now sitting by the lake at sunset again. 22deg. It's a pretty good setting. Nepal Ice beers @A$3.10ea (Wine, we are back on the local brew), complimentary popcorn and an impressive view, I like our post-trek recovery..!!
Back to Kat for our last night tomorrow. 

Note. Several have expressed their concern for us (via Facebook and emails) following the news of the recent death of a Melbourne man at EBC. Obviously, we are all safe but we too are intrigued as to who it was as we may have seen him up there while we were there. Thanks for you your concerns.

​

7 Comments

Sun 5th Mar....R&R time...

5/3/2017

12 Comments

 
All tough treks deserve some R&R. After yesterday mornings exit from Lukla back into Kat, we found ourselves showered and relaxing in the beautiful KGH garden, only to soon be lost in the thoughts that we should be trekking., we should still be stinky and our heart rates should be up around 130bpm..!!! Strange feeling.!! Didn't feel right being back...!
We bid a farewell to Neil as he departed back to Dubai. We then organised our flights to Pokhara and went out for our second last dinner in Kat.
Glenn is staying in Kat to explore more of the city.
Simi and Shailendra are already back in Melbourne having chosen to go home early upon their arrival back into Kat.
Today we made the 25min flight to Pokhara. I normally propose we drive one way (6hrs) just to see the Nepal country side, but most of the remaining team opted to fly (at a few extra $$).
We are currently having a quiet beer by the beautiful Pokhara lake watching a storm roll in. Sensational setting.
Steve, John, Matt and Dan have already booked to go paragliding in the morning. 
We've earn't it..!!
12 Comments

Sat 4th Mar. Lukla to Kathmandu - No fuss...

4/3/2017

10 Comments

 
PictureRunning into old guide Neema.
We put in our final long day yesterday. 24km from Namche to Lukla via Mingma & Neema's house. Two hours at their house enjoying the best fried potatoes & veggies and .........yes, the inevitable glass or two ........ or three of chang..!!! Their twin boys (yes, Mingma & Mingma) and their lovely daughter Lakpa were delightful hosts. The visit to their house has always been a highlight of the trek and last night was no exception. Mingma and Neema have been just brilliant on this trek.
We arrived back under the Lukla arch (were we started 11 days earlier) around 6.30pm in the dark. Gathering together and congratulating each other, we walked back through the arch together. It was surreal to walk through Lukla in the dark. Such a great trek. Perfect weather, incredible views and so many laughs (and a few changs to help with the feelings)
We paid and tipped our wonderful porters, had the traditional sizzling chicken and a couple of beers. Couldn't have felt better.
This morning, we were sent over the the Lukla airport very early. Planes started landing before 7am which is about the earliest I can remember. We were back in Kat by 7.45am..!
Showers, coffee, clean clothes and shave and massage booked for 12.30pm. 
We will now decide who wants to go down to Pokhara. Neil may be departing back to Dubai tonight and Glenn has hinted that he wants to explore more of Kathmandu, so may be just a few of us head down.
Chatting to the team in the KGH garden this morning most are actually very sad the trek is over. They have all stated how much they loved the entire experience and how tough it was to pack the kit bag for the last time this morning..!

​

10 Comments

Thur 2nd Mar. Oh the sweet smell of oxygen

2/3/2017

13 Comments

 
Continuing on from our solid 20km and 1.2km drop in altitude yesterday, we completed another 14kms today to arrive into Namche@3,500mts. After spending 5 days above 4,000mts, most of the team commented how great it felt to be back down lower. Oxygen enriched air, a little warmer, and ....... an excellent (and well earned) coffee at Namche.
We had a terrific night sitting around our lodge reflecting on the the last week. This group truly generates some laughter and several times tonight, we were each doubled over laughing aloud..!!

Glenn awoke this morning with a badly bleeding nose, which required some attention and care to stop. Probably the result of the dusty environment and the very cold dry air. It was a sight to see our head guide Mingma hand feeding Glenn his breakfast so that Glenn could manage the bleeding. Our Mingma is a true servant. Glenn recovered quickly and was fine by mid morning.

Our final trek day tomorrow has us dropping from Namche@3,500mts back into Lukla@2,900mts. It's a solid 22km day, so we will be aiming to start early. We have been invited to our customary visit and dinner at Neema and Mingma's house (just below Lukla). This has been such an honour for us over several years. We will then pay out, tip and farewell our wonderful porters. This is often an enjoyable but also an emotional time.
13 Comments

Wed 1st Mar. We're back on air...

1/3/2017

30 Comments

 
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Kalar Patar...5545mts
Well after not having internet for over 5 days, it's great to be connecting with you all again. Thanks Sue for filling the gaps while we have been off the airwaves.
What an incredible past few days we have had. After the emotion of farewelling Simi and Shailendra at Dingboche, the remaining 7 of us trudged our way up to Lobouche at 4,900mts. Our head guide Mingma put us into a lovely lodge. 
The next day we departed for our high camp Gorak Shep at 5,100mts. The day was perfect, as has the weather been since the start of the trek. We arrived at Gorak at around midday and looked up at our final challenge Kalla Pattar 5,545mts awaiting us in the morning. But checking the weather forecast, we saw potential cloud in the morning..! So after the challenging hike from Lobouche to Gorak, we jointly made the decision to knock of KP that same afternoon..!! (Something I swore I would never attempt again after my failure back in 2007..!!) 2 1/2hrs later, all 7 of us stood on KP in brilliant sunshine but in a spine shivering cold wind..!! Despite being totally exhausted that night in our Gorak Shep Lodge, we felt so good to have knocked it off and be able to head back down in the morning.
We've seen so many emergency helicopters flying back and forward to Base Camp, presumably picking up trekkers suffering altitude problems, and last night in our Lodge, we witnessed an Australian girl requiring supplementary oxygen and an emergency night time walk down to lower altitude..!!
The team is going strong. One or two headaches and a few upset tummies, but all trudging along nicely and now enjoying some welcomed increase in oxygen..!
Tomorrow we plan to arrive back into Namche and then Lukla on Friday.
Thanks for all your comments. I'm going to read them out to the team around the dining room fire and respond to them. ​
30 Comments

Dodgy WiFi

1/3/2017

20 Comments

 
Hi All, It's Sue again.  Brief contact from David yesterday to say that all 7 stood on Kalar Patar yesterday afternoon.....a day earlier than planned due to weather opportunity with a forecast of cloud for this mornings usual attempt.  A broken conversation saying he can't post anything due to crappy wifi.  All are well, but in David's words "stuffed".  Stay tuned for an update and photos.
20 Comments

Mon 27th Feb...First touch of Wifi. 

27/2/2017

22 Comments

 
Very weak signal, no pictures.

SUN 26th Feb.....Up  High at Dingboche....
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We completed our second acclimatisation day today with our climb to Chukung 4,800mts amsl and back (acclimatisation involves climbing high but then returning lower to sleep that night). 
A few of the team have some minor headaches and tummy rumbles but all going ok at this stage.
Given we are now well above 4,000mts, we are experiencing minus temperatures at night times and most of the team are now wearing their thermals into their minus 10 sleeping bags. Toilets are frozen and the place to be at night is around the common room fire, which given we are now above the tree line, is now burning dried yak poop.
Tomorrow we head to Loboche@4,900mts. The following day, we push on to Gorak Shep@5,100mts. These two camps will really challenge the team due to the cold and remoteness, although we are likely to get 5 bar reception at Gorak Shep due to the emergency communications tower there.

Special note. Glenn has been given a first warning to stop talking to people he meets on the trail about his bowel movements.!!

Late note. I was shattered when Simi and Shailendra informed the team last night that they were turning back..! Simi has a chest infection which is slowing her progress. Despite some efforts to change their mind (they are only 2 days from Gorak Shep), Shailendra thought it best to retreat before her condition deteriorates.!! It was a major blow for me. I so much personally wanted to see the both of them on KP. It was a rather emotional farewell this morning as they departed Dingboche on the way down.

The remaining 7 of us have climbed strongly to Tugla and will continue on to Lobouche @4,900mts after lunch. We are desperately trying to get a forecast for Wednesday (our KP day). Weather has been fantastic but we are told it is about to change..!! If Wednesday looks bad, we may try to bring KP forward to tomorrow.

If no update tonight, then perhaps tomorrow from Gorak Shep.
22 Comments

Sun 26th Feb....No Wifi

26/2/2017

5 Comments

 
Picture
Hi blog followers, It's Sue, David sister.  Given we haven't heard anything from the team we can assume no Wifi in the village of Dingboche (4410mt).  It's here they will spend two nights, with today being an acclimatisation walk up to a village called Chhukhung (4730mt) before descending back down to Dingboche for another night.  As far as steepness goes, today's walk is relatively "easy" with a gradual climb over a couple of hours.  I use the term "easy" because it would be if you were at sea level.  Given they are now above 4400 metres it certainly won't be an easy walk, but more a necessity to help their bodies acclimatise to higher up with their next stop tomorrow at Lobuche (4940mt).  David did manage to forward me a photo yesterday from their lunch stop.  

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Lunch at 4040mt
5 Comments

Fri 24th Feb. Safe into Deboche.

24/2/2017

7 Comments

 
PictureRest break on the climb to Thengboche
We left the creature comforts of Namche this morning (we all had a beaut coffee prior to departure) and are now in Deboche @ 3,800mts. The day was absolutely beautiful with not a cloud in the sky as we hiked under the view of Everest. There were several on the trail this morning, probably the result of the cancelled flights earlier in the week.

The Thengboche climb was slow but steady. By the time we had reached the top, the clouds had came in and the temperature dropped significantly.

We are now sitting around an excellent warm fire. The temp outside is 0 and there is cloud rolling in. It's going to be a cold night. Reports from those coming down from Base Camp has temperatures reported down to minus 15-20..!!!

Tomorrow, we head up to the first of our high camps, Dingboche at 4,400mts amsl. Edging closer and closer to Base Camp.

7 Comments

Thur 23rd Feb.  The rest day that isn't..!!

23/2/2017

17 Comments

 
Today was the first of our two acclimatisation days. We departed at 8.15am on a perfect cloudless morning for the short but steep 400mt climb to Everest View Hotel at 3,900mts. Everest and its mighty neighbours were in full view. Marsala tea on the balcony of the hotel made for a lovely half hour looking up the Khumbu Valley to Everest.
We then returned to Namche via lunch at beautiful Kumjung, sitting outside in the sun enjoying the panorama. We then visited the Kumjung school where Neil dropped off some pencils and felt pens that he had brought up. The school was happy to receive this. Our visit coincided with the lunch time bell going off and all of us being surrounded by several small children. A real highlight.
The steep drop down to Namche provided us some very good photo opportunities of the village. 
Simi and Dan arrived back into Namche not feeling quite 100% and are relaxing back at the lodge. The rest of us have grabbed our last half-decent coffee at the bakery. From tomorrow, bakeries and coffees will become a distant memory..!!

The plan tomorrow is to depart Namche around 8am for Deboche. The walk will initially be pleasant and reasonably flat (apart form the climb out of Namche) but will then drop steeply to a river. We will have a light lunch at the river before our climb up to Thengboche. Then a little further on to our nights stop at Deboche.
Internet may be dodgy from Deboche, so don't panic if there is no update tomorrow night.
17 Comments

Wed 22nd Feb. We've made it to Namche....

22/2/2017

13 Comments

 
We have all arrived into Namche @3,500mts. We walked most of the day under an overcast sky, so no view of Everest half way up the Namche climb. 

The climb, being our first of several on this trek was difficult as usual. The order of the afternoon was slow with several stops.

Ok, some observations on some of the team members after trek day2. 
-Glenn likes to dabble. From offering his labour on roadside construction, to swapping roles with the porters and then helping out in the kitchen preparing breakfast.
-Steve is a practical joker. Claims to have itching powder in his bag and is just working out who to use it on. Now given he is the big tough firey, guess who felt the cold the most last night in Tok Tok...?? Not so tough..!!
-Simi is loving her trek to date, despite the challenge of today's climb. Has the best smile in the group by far.
-Neil is always good for a classic one-liner. Enjoying Nepal but hates not having wifi..!
-Matt and Dan are also pranksters, and often target Steve. I fear they both may suffer some unwanted itching before the trek is full.

We have checked into our Namche lodge. Some of us are trying to organise a shower or bowl of hot water. Then it's off to the bakery for the last of the creature comforts (coffee and apple pie) before going higher the day after tomorrow.

Have been reading your comments out to the teams. Lots of laughs.
13 Comments

Tue 21st Feb. Lukla arrival

21/2/2017

13 Comments

 
After the dramas of yesterday, we have now arrived into Lukla and are about to commence our trek. The flight is always exciting and today was no exception. 
Mingma was there to meet us and we are rapt that his wife Neema will be portering for us to Base Camp as well. Simi is so happy as she is counting on Neema to inspire her.
Day 1 underway.
13 Comments

Mon 20th Feb. Not today...

20/2/2017

24 Comments

 
We all sprang out of bed at 4.30 this morning and we're in the Kathmandu domestic departure lounge by 5.45am..!!!
Along with several others, we waited...and we waited...and we waited..!! The lounge became very full of passengers trying to depart to several parts of Nepal that were closed due weather. With no spare seats available........we waited.
Now normally, if you haven't been called up for your Lukla departure by around late morning to midday due weather, you normally get cancelled for the day. But today, Tara Airlines insisted all Lukla passengers remain at the airport well beyond midday and wait for Lukla to open. (They were trying to clear the backlog from yesterday's cancelled flights). In fact, it was 2.15 when the announcement came over that Lukla was still closed and all Lukla flights were cancelled. Devastating..!!! A very long day for very little result.
We are now back in Thamel, some of us still wearing our day 1 trek gear..!! Sitting in Sue's favourite coffee shop (Himalayan Java) washing down (and eating away) the frustration of the day.

Now I am used to Lukla delays. That's the nature of the EBC trek. (Adventure, not a Holiday). But today was tough for several within the team. 

So tomorrow is no guarantee either. Forecast only marginally better and we are now on the 3rd flight due to the backlog of those now trying to get in/out of Lukla..!! Hoping for good fortune tomorrow..!

Neil is the positive one in the group.  He has titled tomorrow "Tok Tok Tuesday"....being our planned 1st night trek.
24 Comments

Sun 19th Feb. Final Preparation...

19/2/2017

22 Comments

 
Very funny start to the morning. The Kathmandu Guest House had some angry visitors this morning. A hostile family of monkeys invaded the KGH garden and were rather threatening to the guests. Shailendra was seen running across the garden with a monkey in hot pursuit..!! Then one jumped at me through my room window.!! Hilarious.
Today we walked to and climbed the monkey temple. Great walk through the back streets of Kat. A funny moment when Glenn was invited to join a construction team and he accepted. Check photo.
Tomorrow morning we are due to fly into Lukla and commence our trek. Alarms have been set for 4.30am for a 5.15am mini bus to Kathmandu's domestic airport. Departure time on our tickets states 6.15am, but this means nothing as it is very dependent on weather in both Kathmandu and Lukla. Unfortunately as I write this, clouds have come in and it's got cooler. The dodgy forecast we looked up yesterday may prove to be correct. Worse case scenario - no flights tomorrow..!! 

​
22 Comments

Sat 18th Feb... 5 min with Rick Ford

18/2/2017

9 Comments

 
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​​​Normal touristy stuff today, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to interview good mate Rick on his return to Kathmandu after 30years.


So Rick
Me.  What changes have you observed in Kat over 30 years?
Rick. Shops are now open after 6pm
A lot busier.

​M. What do you think of KGH?
R Great. Love the place

​M. What are the chances of you joining us to Lukla on Monday?
R. Buckleys and none

M. What is your best memories of 1987?
R. Peter trying to drown a guy on the rafting trip
Some of the team sleep talking
Yak cigarettes
Apple brandy

M. How fit are you?
R. Not good. 20 cigs a day
No wine or spirits, just beer

M. What can I do to convince you to join us on Monday?
R. Doctor on the trip
​Oxygen bottle on the trip
Hyperbaric chamber
Some of the Essendon Football club supplements

M.What is your assessment of the team?
R. I'll reserve my judgement till after your trek.

M.What did you think of Kumari? Genuine?
R. Didn't look like the girl in the photos.  Suspect she was a stand-in.

M. What's your favourite beer in Nepal?
R. Everest Lager best by far.  Bill doesn't know what he's talking about.

M. And finally, what are the chances of you flying in with us on Monday?
R. Not a chance.

M. Thanks for the interview Rick.

9 Comments

Fri 17th Feb. All arrived into Kat...

17/2/2017

6 Comments

 
So after 6 months of organising this trip, the entire team came together for the first time today. We all met at the Kathmandu Guest House before going on a good familiarisation walk around Kat. The smells, sounds and noise just brilliant.
Dinner tonight at New Orleans Wine Bar. I can confirm that Steve is a stirrer, but I sense Neil is too. Lots of laughs already. Matt and Dan setting up Neil with the street touts. Rather funny.
All likely to sleep well tonight.
Quote of the day. From the airport arrivals desk officer to Steve. "You look Nepalese"...!!!
6 Comments

Thur 16th Feb. Departure Melbourne...

16/2/2017

2 Comments

 
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2 Comments

Thur 16th Feb. Always a good feeling...

16/2/2017

15 Comments

 
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What is it about departure day..? That sense of excitement and adventure, but also the unknown. The intrigue of a new team, a team that you think you have come to know over the last few months, but you often learn more about as the trek progresses. The anticipation of meeting up with long time Nepalese friends. The hope of seeing perhaps a little progress from the earthquakes that devastated this beautiful country two years ago. It all makes for a healthy level of butterflies in the gut.

Shailendra, Simi, Steve, Glenn and I depart at 3.15 today, arriving into Bangkok just after Midnight (Oz) and around 8.15pm Bangkok time. We will overnight near the airport and then continue on to Kathmandu tomorrow morning.

John, Matt, Dan, Neil & Rick depart Dubai this afternoon and arrive into Kathmandu around 6pm tonight.

Good mate Rick is not doing the trek, but is coming across from Dubai (currently living there) for the weekend just to re-visit Kathmandu after 30years..!! (Rick, Peter and I first visited Nepal in 1987..!!) 

We will all meet up tomorrow. Bring it on..!
15 Comments

Sat 11th Feb. Almost upon us...

11/2/2017

13 Comments

 
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We are now just 5 days out from Departure.
I had requested the team have this weekend off just to relax and take it easy before our departure on Thursday. Not Simi and Shailendra..!! They were out on the 1000 Steps again this morning completing one last slog..!! And if I know those lads in Dubai, they will attack the gym a few more times before they depart on Thursday..!! Everyone......NO INJURIES...!!!

The 2017 EBC team are physically ready for this trek. And with some good team support, I think we can help each other confront the mental pains that creep up on you as you go higher. 

If this blog is half as enjoyable as the ABC blog just completed, it will be a good one. Looking forward to you following us on our Everest adventure. (And yes, I'm preparing for your supporting, funny and often cheeky responses).
13 Comments
    Picture
    David
    2017 EBC blog...

    ​Hi all.

    Welcome to the 2017 EBC trip blog.

    David will update and post the progress of the team from their departure out of Melbourne to their slog up to Everest Base Camp at 5,545m amsl and then their safe descent and recovery back down.

    Feel free to access this blog and drop them a comment during their trip. Depending on the availability of WIFI on the way up, the team will be rapt to hear from you. 

    Cheers.

    David & Sue
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